Creating a Backyard Shed, Part 2, Getting Down to Business

You got all the materials that we told you about in Part 1, right? Terrific! Once again we want to thank our friends at Popular Mechanics for helping us with this project.

So, without any further adieu, let’s take a look at what you’re about to put together in Parts 2 and 3:

Shed Plans

You might want to print-out this graphic. It will make things easier as we assemble your new backyard shed. To make matters yet more simple, we’ll give you a blow-by-blow of where to start and how you’ll finish-off this sweet looking place to store your outdoor stuff.

Ready, Set … Go!

You’ll want to begin by stomping-down the places you’ll be placing the concrete blocks. Bring the hard stone supports to the site, measuring around 8-by-6 feet apart with the diagonal ones spaced at 10 feet. Get everything level. No need to have too much of a slanted surface once assembly starts.

The Band Joists

For this you’re going to need to have a drill, a saw and a three-and-a half yard level. You’re also required to use 4, four-by-four floor posts, some deck screws, two-by-six band joists, the 5/16th lag bolts and washers.

Slice the pressure-treated four-by-fours into foot-long pieces and put the lumber — vertically — into all the corner concrete blocks.

Now saw a piece of the pressure-treated two-by-sixes so that it measures 67-and-3/4 inches in length. Put it on the short side of the shed where the ground is highest. Put some temporary deck screws in so that the ends are flush to the outside edges of the posts.

Saw one piece of the two-by-six wood to 92-inches, bringing that to the long side and set it up flush to the other two-by-six. It’s another temporary connection. Repeat this process along the perimeter of the frame the same way you did right at the beginning. Ensure that the frame is square by taking out your measure and verify that the diagonal part is exactly 116 inches. Then double-check the outside so that it measures 70-and-3/4-by-92 inches. Is everything copacetic? Fill your pouch with washers and 5/16th-inch lag bolts. You’re about to permanently join two bolts to every four-by-fours to the two-by-six inch lumber. You’ll want to countersink the bolts so the heads are under the surface.

Putting the Floor In

You’re going to use a circular and reciprocating saw, a pair of concrete blocks and two-by-sixes as well as a couple of four-by-four floor posts. Also needed: 2-and-a-half inch decking screws and some 3/4-inch plywood sheathing.

Three floor joists will be cut into 67-and-3/4 inches long planks. Stick ’em in as well as the four-by-fours and the deck blocks. Trim the tops of the four-by-fours flush with top of the frame. Finally slap-down the plywood with two-and-a-half inch decking screws about a foot apart. More trimming so the plywood fits snugly.

How ‘Bout Those Walls?

Bring your hammer and circular saw to the party. You’ll likewise need some two-by-four framing, with a pocket-full of three-and-a-half inch galvanized nails.

Cut the two-by-fours to size. Then slice-up the vertical parts, the studs, to 88-inches long.

Start with the wall without the window. Saw two, two-by-fours 92-inches long. Rest them next to each other mark and where the studs will go (on 24-inch centers). At the end of the board, you’ll end up with a little extra. Nail it all together with three-and-a-half inch galvanized nails

The other wall, same thing. But forget the center stud. That’s where the window will go. Later you’ll cut a hole that’s about 38-inches tall, 32-inches wide and 7-inches from the top plate.

For the framed gable-end walls, the lumber should be 91-inches tall and 63-and-3/4’s of an inch wide. On the front, install your lumber leaving a gap which is 84-inches high and 36-inches wide. That’s where the future door will hang. A tip: Position the studs in such a way that the seams of the siding will be right over a stud. Since the siding will extend over either side of the wall by 4-inches, place the first stud so that the center is 20-inches from the edge of the board. Center the next stud 44-inches from the end of the board.

One more post to go, but by now you should have a big part of the job done. In Part 3, we’ll finish it. Come back soon to get the final post in this three-part series.

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