Creating a Backyard Shed, Part 3, Finishing Up

If you haven’t read “Creating a Backyard Shed, Parts 1 and 2,” this last installment is going to sound somewhat weird. Go back and take a gander at the first couple of posts which include a list of what you need for this project and assembling the frame. This time we’re going to put a wrap on the shed.

backyard shed

Once again, we thank Popular Mechanics for developing this money-saving method to store your outside materials. Also, we want to recommend using as much ipe as possible. It’s a truly hard wood which will keep your storage house sturdy, bug and moisture resistant.

Window and Siding

Obviously you’ll need to get your hands on a single-hung sash window, hammer and a handful of two-and-a-half inch galvanized nails.

Other than that, it’s pretty easy.

Put the window in the opening, center it and bang it into place. Before you start siding, caulk it up.

As for the siding, keep out the hammer, nails, caulk and invite a circular saw to the scene. For the siding itself, purchase enough T1-11 siding as recommended in Part 1.

When installing the siding, it should be flush with the top plate. At the bottom, put in the slats. Only make sure it sticks-out 5-inches beyond the bottom plate. Hammer-in the nails 7-inches apart. Around the window, saw the stuff to fit.

When you get to the gable-end walls, nail in the siding beyond by 4-inches. Cut the door opening and keep the lumber for creating the entrance-way in a little while.

The Roof Trusses

You’ll need the proscribed two-by-fours, the circular saw and rafter square for this part.

The roof needs to slope. Here’s the formula: It will rise 7-inches for every 12-inches of horizontal measurement. Build five of these that will contain one ceiling post and two rafters. Making a pair of rafters, take out the rafter square so you can pencil-in a plumb cut smack dab in the middle of each two-by-four. Ultimately you’ll want to do some trimming of every rafter so that the longer side measures 47-and-1/4 inches.

The rafter square comes in again at this point to pencil-in seat cuts at both ends of every ceiling joist. Make your mark at the number 7 notch on the common top cut table. Now pivot the square until its edge is at the mark. Make a line along the edge. Do this on the other end, too. Cut it with the circular saw. Just make sure that the long side measures 72 inches.

Make a truss layout on the floor deck. Since the bottom edge measures 72 inches, mark at the 21-inch spot of the halfway point. Basically, it’s going to be where the bottom edges of the two rafters will join at the roof’s ridge.


Since they’re already assembled, start outside then move indoors to screw them into position. Probably going to need three friends to help with this part.

Slam those trusses in the roof cavity. Have them settle on the top plates. Start at one of the gable ends and continue to hammer-in the rest, evenly spaced, of course.

Fascia and Rake Boards

You’ll need to slice-up a pair of one-by-fours, 94-and-one-half inches in length. Attach them to the ends of the rafters with 8d nails. These are your fascia boards. The rake boards need to be done pretty much the same as the rafters. The long sides will need to be cut to 48-inches. Once that’s done, nail ’em into the gable ends.

The Roof Deck

You’ll also need a little help with this. You’re going to be tacking a two-by-four to every rafter. Then take a full sheet of plywood and nail it every 8-inches to the structure. Want to add the shingles? First you’ll need to attach the drip edge along the lower border of the roof. Staple some roofing felt to the deck. Lay down the shingles, using one-and-1/4 inch nails. You’ll be repeating this process during the second part of laying overlapping shingles.

Almost Done

Finally let’s slap a door on this project. Frame the portal with a couple of two-by-fours. Make sure that the outside dimensions should be an inch smaller than the opening — height- and width-wise.

Trim the piece of lumber that you cut-out for the door. Shape it so that it becomes a half-inch smaller on all edges. Collect a trio of heavy-duty strap hinges. Shim any spaces to get the gaps near perfect.

You’re done! Grab a chair, admire your work and imagine what you can add to the finished structure, like stain. Take the rest of the day off. You can start filling your utility house tomorrow. No need to jump right now. You finished a major project. Reap your rewards with a steak, some baked potatoes and fresh corn off your Kamado Joe!

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